On Wednesdays, I write at home while Anton looks after Simone. I huddle over the desk, toggling between edits on Pipette and the last few chapters of my book manuscript, which I’m currently scrutinizing sentence by sentence before I dare to send them over to my editor.
Today my writing efforts were distracted by following the ongoing revelations about exploitation at an Italian natural wine estate that has been celebrated and championed by industry leaders over the past year or so. For more on that story, I urge you to visit @glougloumagazine and @thecollectress — the latter has a few recent videos in which she speaks truth about some harsh realities this industry has to face.
All of this has me thinking about how natural wine, which once was a small, quirky movement about easily drinkable wine made by ethical farmers, has become so focused on the commercial aspects that someone like this can slip through the cracks. But it also has me thinking of the hard working, dedicated and uncompromising natural winemakers who have been there all along. Who didn’t hire a consultant and slap minimalist labels on the bottles and proclaim themselves “natural.” Who earned respect and trust over time and built the foundations of this movement.
Cantina Giardino’s “Sophia” was on the shelf when I worked retail in Brooklyn in 2014 and I brought it to my tasting group. It captured my heart then and it’s still one of my favorites!
The movement will evolve. More transparency about labor conditions is needed. More inclusivity in the industry is vital. And there will be producers like Cantina Giardino who stand the test of time.
Black tea and kumquats; skin contact Greco from high elevation Campania vineyards.