Do you know Cantina Giardino? If not, then please call your local natural wine supplier at the earliest convenience and ask how you can get ahold of some.
These are marvelous wines that are consistently sulfur-free with perfectly balanced low-alcohol, zinging acidity, tannin and flavor from expertly applied skin contact. They are also fun and quite affordable. They are made from high-elevation vineyards, with grapes native to Campania, in Southern Italy.
When I worked retail in Brooklyn back in 2013, Cantina Giardino, which is run by husband-and-wife team Antonio di Gruttola and Daniela de Gruttola*, seduced me. I recently found out they are changing their labels for the next release -- apparently the couple felt that they were due for a "restyling"! A mid-winery-life crisis?
The "Gaia," pictured at the header of this newsletter, is made from a 90-year-old Fiano vineyard planted at around 500m above sea level. What I would give to see this vineyard. BTW, if you've ever wondered what the fuss is with old vines, there's a helpful (though somewhat American-centric) article on that topic by Wine Folly. The "Gaia" has a nutty, somewhat sour flavor that I absolutely love. It was the perfect wine alongside a bowl of pasta with pips (small clams) we harvested only hours earlier from the beach.
We also loved the "Paski," made of Code de Volpe Bianco, aged in Chestnut barrels. More on the fruity side and blessed with those wonderful, light tannins you get from a short skin contact. Both CG wines here were 2018, a cool vintage in Campania.
*Believe it or not, Antonio and Daniela actually have different surnames which seem almost the same.
Cascina Tavijn "Ottavio"
Heaven is this crunchy, lithe Grignolino from Nadia Verrua of Cascina Tavijn in Piemonte. The wine just barely coats your tongue and throat with tannins, enough so you know it’s an Italian red, but the low alcohol and light extraction allow acidity and subtle flavors of dried cranberry and oregano to shine.
Cascina Tavijn “Ottavio,” made of 100 percent Grignolino from historic estate vineyards. In previous generations, the family fed Grignolino grapes to their cows! Bottled with 2g sulfur. The afternoon pick me up you NEED. Drink chilled and young. Featured in Pipette Magazine Issue 3.
Dote Vini
Spring is here! 🌱 Blossoming aromas waft through the air, e.e. cummings poems fill my head, and I can feel the seasonal depression lifting.
On a recent warm evening we popped the cap on this Syrah/Viognier light red from @dote.vini in Tuscany. A delightful, fresh, simple, low alcohol wine. A new take on the super Tuscan, you could say!
I’m working on something fun to share with you guys soon. Those of you who used to follow my personal blog will appreciate!
Scintilla Wines Shiraz
It’s been raining nonstop for four days. It sounds like the clouds are using our roof as a steel drum, and our windows remain fogged for hours. We are mostly sipping tea and Tasmanian whiskey these cold nights, but we also gulped down our friend James Madden’s spunky, bright @scintilla_wines Shiraz.
A “scintilla” is a spark, a small trace of something. Outside, we see the tiniest hints of winter fading into spring. Cones starting to grow on the pines. Vineyards freshly pruned, preparing to awaken and produce buds, then shoots.
Other signs of positivity have emerged this week. I’m grasping for these scintillas as much as possible, holding them close where they keep me warm.
Scintilla Wines 2019 Shiraz from McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills. Dark brambly fruits, snappy tannins, and fizzy pop acid. Zero zero deliciousness.