Once Upon A Time (A Brief Story About Truffles)

In a chateau, on a hill, overlooking the forest of Nuits-Saint-Georges, at a place called L’or des Valois

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Thierry Bezeux and his son Yann hunt for truffles with their dog, Julio, a special Italian breed called lagotta romagnolo…

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And work with local restaurants and chefs to serve a wholesome, classic, lunch featuring truffles in every course, including a truffled ratafia (a Burgundy dessert wine made with marc)…

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The food is rich, humble yet artful, and fragrant with the pungent smell of black truffles, so earthy and forestal. Thierry pours me a fresh Bourgogne blanc and tells me his philosophy of food: it is about authenticity, and familiarity. The fancy chefs out there, doing haute-cuisine, he tells me, are too focused on visual elements, when what matters is taste. Their fancy meals require more labor and result in high costs. I’m sure we can all relate to what he’s saying, to some extent. Having eaten at wd-50 just about two weeks ago, I am not sure I can pinpoint which experience was more magical–picking at Wiley Dufresne’s whimsical and decorative (and very pricey) gastronomic designs, or having a warm and cozy meal on a misty hill surrounded by forest, enjoying creamy sauces, fresh undressed greens, and thick local cheeses.

The end…

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